Concord Grape!

October 22, 2017

Concord grapes are a deliciously annoying fruit. My first hands-on experience with them was during an internship at a fine dining restaurant, and I was shocked and appalled by how seedy they were, and by the work required to render them edible (unless you enjoy crunching seeds). I still feel this way, but every fall for the last three years, I’ve made myself go through with incorporating them some way, some how, into baking.

This post is a round up of those techniques and a recipe or two. I’m including short-cut ideas where possible with the knowledge that perhaps not everyone gets a kick out of lengthy kitchen processes, or at least not all the time. (….though I have to admit that the from-scratch results are best in terms of flavor! less artificial candy, more musk and depth.)

Ah, and so, before I get much further, I have a confession about this year’s Concord grape extravaganza. I set out to make I know not what, some kind of grape sauce/compote situation, and then before I knew it, I was introducing eggs and butter to make a curd. The curd turned out just right, but unfortunately I didn’t keep track of measurements. Because I’m maniacally tackling a few different pre-baby to-do lists, I don’t think I’ll revisit Concord grape curd this year, but next year with more organized intentions!

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First up from 2015, the delicious Momofoku peanut butter & Concord grape pie. I recall that being a lengthy project…and so, so worth the time.

Second! I made this Concord grape jam from Epicurious last year, to slather between biscuits with butter, and to liven up a cream cheese danish at the bakery. It’s straightforward and excellent.

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This year, I’ve enjoyed the unmeasured Concord grape curd in the following ways, and assure you that jam (homemade or store-bought) can work in its place:

a) swirled into cream cheese frosting and sandwiched between cookies of your choosing–peanut butter, gingersnaps, shortbread…!  If using homemade cookies, I’d recommend rolling your dough into logs (1.5-2″ in diameter), and wrapping them tightly in parchment paper which you can freeze, and then slice and bake as desired.  This will give them a uniform, flat finish and an even surface area for filling, resulting in a quite civilized cookie sandwich (less like stuffing your face with an actual yo-yo).

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b) used as hand-pie/pop tart filler! Simply roll out your favorite pie dough into a large rectangle, divide it into equal rectangles, brush one half of the rectangles with water and top with 2-3 tablespoons of jam.  Top with the remaining rectangles and crimp around the edges to seal in the jam.  Freeze for at least 4 hours or up to a few weeks, and bake when desired!  (pre-baking, brush with egg wash and sprinkle with turbinado sugar)

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Getting a little weird this morning, with one of those songs I thought I hated until I didn’t have time to push “next” on Pandora just seconds in, and it played out and hooked me–

 

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